-PORTU- might be a sign half-erased, a sculpture, a bar’s name, or simply the moment the street exhales and becomes an alley.
Though technically a square, it functions as a massive, boulevard-like street. Here, in 1969, Jan Palach self-immolated against the Warsaw Pact invasion. In 1989, hundreds of thousands gathered during the Velvet Revolution. Today, it’s a mix of casinos, fast food, horse statues, and memorials. Walk it at dawn to feel its gravity.
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